Buyers who sell into more than one country sometimes ask for “a universal version”. Phone chargers and laptop bricks are built that way. A cooking robot is not: its heater and motor are built for one supply, and the voltage version you order decides how the machine heats, which test report covers it and what goes on the box.
So treat the electrical version and the plug as two separate lines on the order, and decide them per market.
Why a heater does not care what the plug looks like
Illustrative calculation: a simple resistive model, not a measurement of our machines.
A switch-mode charger converts whatever comes in. A heating element is a resistance, and its output follows the square of the voltage. Take a heater rated 1000 W at 230 V and run it on 120 V: it delivers roughly (120 ÷ 230)² × 1000 ≈ 270 W, so soups take far longer and some programmes never reach temperature. Run a heater built for 120 V on 230 V, and it tries to draw about 3.7 times its rating.
A plug adapter changes none of this. A transformer changes voltage but not frequency, and it adds a box the end customer has to buy and understand.
Two versions, and which markets take which
KC1-B, KC5, KC7, KC8 and KC9 are listed for 50/60 Hz in a 100–120 V or a 220–240 V version. For KC1-D, ask us for the electrical data of the version you need. The table shows the usual household supply and plug types; check the IEC World Plugs list for any other country. The plug column is what to specify for an appliance of this power. Type C (Europlug) is rated only 2.5 A, so it is left out even where sockets accept it. For Italy, specify the 10 A Type L plug (CEI 23-50 S 11). It fits the Italian 10 A socket, the common bipasso socket and the combined Schuko-bipasso socket, while a Schuko plug fits only the last of these without an adapter. KC7's 1,800 W at 230 V is about 7.8 A, well inside 10 A.
One caution for 100–120 V markets: KC7 is listed at 1,800 W, which at 110–120 V means 15–16.4 A, at or above the 15 A that ordinary A and B plugs are rated for. For any 100–120 V order, get the rated power and current of that exact version first, then specify a plug and cord rated for it.
| Market | Household supply | Plug to specify | Version to order |
|---|---|---|---|
| United States | 120 V, 60 Hz | A, B | 100–120 V |
| Taiwan | 110 V, 60 Hz | A, B | 100–120 V |
| Mainland China | 220 V, 50 Hz | A, I | 220–240 V |
| Most EU countries (e.g. Germany, Netherlands, Spain) | 230 V, 50 Hz | E/F (CEE 7/7) | 220–240 V |
| Italy | 230 V, 50 Hz | L, 10 A (CEI 23-50 S 11) | 220–240 V |
| Saudi Arabia | 230 V, 60 Hz | G | 220–240 V |
| Israel | 230 V, 50 Hz | H | 220–240 V |
The plug is part of the tested configuration
The cord set is listed in the safety test report. If your market uses a plug that the report does not show, the report does not yet cover what you will sell. Ask which plug and cord the report lists before you order, and agree who updates the report if yours is missing.
Saudi Arabia is the case that catches people out: 230 V like Europe, but 60 Hz and a type G plug. A European-plug machine is the wrong version there even though the voltage matches.
Each version is its own SKU
A 120 V and a 230 V unit of the same model have different rating plates, different electrical data in the manual and usually a different box. Give each version its own item number and barcode, and keep them apart in the warehouse; a mixed pallet is how a 120 V machine ends up in a 230 V order.
Custom cartons start at 100 pieces, so if you split a small first order across two versions, plan the box quantity for each.
For each market you sell into, write one line on the order: model, voltage version, frequency and plug type. Then check that line against the sample’s rating plate and the model list in the test report before you approve production.